Finding Greens, Cooking Greens
by Dale Grubaugh
It happened again just the other day.
One of my kids said, “Dad will never go hungry. He eats whatever happens to grow in the yard.”
Every spring, these Ozark hills abound with edible plant life and I’m not talking about collard or turnip greens.
I’m talking about the greens that grow wild in the fields and forests, and yes... in my yard!
Right now, there is a nice stand of polk salat growing next to the parking pad. There is little dock and wild lettuce next to the shed.
I spied a stand of lambsquarter springing up near the dog pen and some wild onions in the garden spot.
Of course, there are dandelions all over and this does say something about the composition of my lawn.
Some folks call these plants weeds.
But to the connoisseur of Ozarkian edibles, these plants are a delectable delight.
How’s that fer fancy words?
Wild greens have long been a springtime staple on many an Ozark table. After a long winter eating foods canned, pickled or stored in the root cellar, wild greens were a mighty welcome change.
Spring greens were fresh and chocked-full of vitamins and nutrients.
Greens should be picked when they are young and tender. More mature plants such as polk and lambsquarter get bitter — and sometimes toxic! — as they get older.
Watercress is good too. Cress can be put on sandwiches, makes a good salad and is pretty tasty wilted with vinegar and bacon.
Just make sure you get the water cress from clean water!
Greens are best picked in the cool of the mornin’ before the dew is off. The hot sun makes ’em a mite wilty.
Be sure to pick yourself a good mixture of different varieties. The milder flavored greens will balance out the stronger ones.
To make sure you have plenty, pick out a regular-sized Arkansas Tumbleweed (Wal-Mart sack) and fill it up with greens.
Before you start washing your greens, put 3 to 4 quarts of water on to boil. Throw in a large piece of smoked pork meat: jowl, ham hock, fat back or even bacon rind. Add pepper, salt and garlic and let this boil for an hour.
Take the meat out and set aside. Now add your washed greens to the water and let them cook down. When tender, you can chop them up if you want. You may also want to chop the pork into small pieces before adding them back to the greens.
Let them slow-cook together until you’re ready to eat.
A hundred years ago, the Ozarks were a hard place to live. Folks had to learn to live off the land. They learned to eat from the forests, fields and streams.
Much of that knowledge has been lost with the passing of time.
Fortunately, there are a few old-timers around who are willing to share what they know. I am thankful for those folks in my life.
So be adventurous! Grab your Arkansas tumbleweeds and head for the yard or field, gather some greens and have yourself a real Ozark cultural experience.
’Till next time,
Elias Tucker
May 17, 2009
plate 1. Polk Salat, Phytolacca americana.
plate 2. Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale.
plate 3. Watercress, Nasturtium officinale.
About the columnist:
Dale Grubaugh, writing as “Elias Tucker from The Holler” is a valued contributor to State of the Ozarks. He is a man who loves his Ozark culture deeply.
As a Southern Baptist preacher and pastor, Dale has dedicated his life to the people of these hills.
Also, he has worked hard in many facets of the Branson show industry. And he has lived the Ozarks, fishing, hunting, appreciating the wilds that are so close — but so closely forgotten.
— Joshua Heston, editor
plate 3. Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale.
From the editor—
Elias, like many native Ozarkers, knows which plants to pick — and which ones to leave. You may not. Some plants are poisonous. Others, as noted in the article, become toxic as they mature. To know the difference? Know your plants and, if necessary, ask a horticulturist before foraging.
Photos by Joshua Heston
